Củ Cải Chua (Fermented Mustard Greens)
Earth Seed School: Recipes
by hải
I often think about the connections between queerness and the lyfe cycle of seeds/plants/society. I imagine how my cultural survival is linked to the survival of heirloom and specialty seeds with so many stories about struggle and resilience, wisdom, and magik. I dream about how biodiverse seeds and plants are and the spectrum of diversity among queer community and culture. I think about what seeds need and what people need to prosper in an ecosystem - the physical things like soil, water, sun, and nutrients and also all the other-than-physical things like being in community, rootedness, nurturance, and love. That in the zenith of the season, both plants and people can be the fullest of our expressions and live lyfe to our greatest possibilities.
Muối cải bẹ xanh - salted preserved mustard greens - is one of those foodways and food practices that I feel exemplifies this connection. This dish takes time, patience, and love to evolve over time.
Ingredients
1 kg củ cảii (1 kg mustard greens - we sourced ours from Moua Farm)
4 chén nước (4 Viet bowls of water)
2 muon muoi (2 spoons salt)
½ chén dám (½ Viet bowl of vinegar, optional)
4 tép tỏi (4 cloves garlic)
Nữa củ hành tiếm (½ shallot)
1 miến ớt (1 chili)
1 củ nhỏ gừng (1 small knob of ginger)
Process
Invite friends, (blood and/or chosen) family, and/or community to join you.
Sun dry the mustard greens for 1-3+ days until there is some wilt. The amount of time will depend on where you are in the world. Sun-drying will help preserve the crunchiness and integrity of the cell walls and also keep activating its lyfe in preserved form. If time is of the essence and sun-drying is less of a possibility, wash the mustard greens and quickly blanch them in a pot of boiling salted water.
For about 1 kilogram of mustard greens:
Ensure that the bottom stems holding all the greens together and any parts of the leaves that seem deteriorated are removed from fermentation and composted. Cut into bite-sized pieces, about 2 inches in width.
For the liquid brine, dissolve 2 tablespoons salt with 4 cups water. Add 2 tablespoons of a sweetener and/or more or less salt if desired. I’ve transitioned out of eating processed sugar for health reasons, so I don’t add sugar. Turn off and remove from heat source and allow to cool completely.
After sun drying the mustard greens, wash them clean and place them in a tub of room temperature water enough to cover them with about two tablespoons of salt dissolved into the water.
As an optional move for those who like flavor and can spice, thinly slice 4 garlic cloves and 1 chili. Add more or less or have none as desired. Other options include adding 1 small bulb of ginger and other alliums like about half an onions and/ shallots.
In a clean container, layer the mustard greens with any additional condiments (garlic, chilis, etc.) Pour the brine to fill up to the top to cover the greens. Add weight to the top (bowl or plate) to ensure the green submerge under the brine. Push down some on the greens to release any air bubbles. Air will oxidize the greens so as little oxygen as possible will help preserve them longer.
Allow the greens to sit out (ideally in the sun) for 3-5 days. Taste as you go and adjust as needed. Once you get to a desired consistency, transfer to a fridge or cool area to lessen fermentation process. Enjoy as is and/or with other dishes!